Unexpected moments

Today was life-changing in many ways. Not in the ways you would expect. We didn't visit the Temple Mount or the Western Wall, and ponder on the destruction of the Temple 2000 years ago. We haven't even been to the Temple Mount yet. We went to Bethlehem. Yet it wasn't the Church of the Nativity that felt life-changing. It was the experiences with people that we had.

Our day started out kind of rough - like a lot of our days seem to. People keep wanting to change the schedule (sometimes we have to change the schedule, because something came up, and then people have different priorities on what we should see); they're tired, they want to see something specific, they want to go shopping; and they have different expectations of what we're going to see and what they're willing to pay to see it. And I've seen pretty much everything we're going to see here, so I'm not super picky, but others's nerves are a bit on edge - and thus, sometimes mornings are less than amicable. Yesterday was probably the most sullen so far.

But we finally made our way to Bethlehem.  We took a Palestinian bus. But I didn't know (I don't know if there is some way I could have known) that the bus drops you off at a bus station in Bethlehem nowhere near the Church of the Nativity. We got bombarded by taxi drivers offering to take us there, and one particularly bold one who was also offering to show us the whole package of things to see in Bethlehem for 40 shekels. Some of us thought it sounded like a good idea. Others not. We passed, but ended up taking an offer from a young guy for 20 shekels, and ended up seeing it all anyway, and paying him 35 shekels because he spent so much time with us and was so pleasant. 

His name was Ali, and with him begins the story of what may turn out to be a life-changing day. He took us to all the cool places - we loved Shepherds' Field (a bit of a surprise - lots of archaeological ruins, caves, etc.), and scoped out the Church of the Nativity. First, Ali took us to a local souvenir shop - out of the way of the tourist stuff, and I think some friends of his. We got to see them making all the olive wood trinkets and nativities you see. It was great. Then to the Church of the Nativity. That's a fascinating place - in addition to being the 1700-year-old church that celebrates Jesus' birth - split down the middle between the Orthodox and Catholic. And we spent some time looking at the separation wall between Israel/Palestine. I've read all about it, but seeing it is something else. 

After that he took us to a local Palestinian restaurant, where we pointed to the food we wanted and ate up. It was delicious! We really had a great time! But it was the talking we did with Ali (in his broken English - far better than my 3-4 word Arabic!) that really got me thinking. He so desperately wants to conflict to be over. And he was so kind and open. He invited us, next time we come, to stay at his home with his wife and children. And he offered to drive us around cool places in the West Bank (Jericho, Dead Sea, Masada, etc.) for a great price. His favorite two sentences: "I just want see you happy smile. I want you take home good picture of Palestine." So we'll see him again Sunday.

He waited with us for the bus, then we got on amidst an entire bus of Palestinians looking at us somewhat curiously. When the bus got to the point of entry, nearly everyone got off and stood in a long line, waiting to show their ID. Watching them stand patiently in that line, like cattle, some of them talking cheerfully, waiting to prove that they aren't terrorists, was a striking moment. 

I know quite a bit in theory about that wall. Since its creation, violent infiltration from Palestine has decreased significantly. But so has the Palestinian economy. And the separation between the two countries has increased. It is a difficult thing to stomach. My feelings are so mixed, it may take some time for me to work it out.

Once we arrived in Jerusalem again, Sylvia and I decided we wanted to try to walk down to Hezekiah's Tunnel, even though we didn't know exactly where it was, or even if it was open (it was already 5; Amy and Anny were tired and have injured feet - they went home). We began a very long journey that took us on about a 2 mile walk down into the Palestinian Village of Silwan, near the Hinom Valley. Oh, we were tired! And we were the only Americans in sight! But we found the Pool of Siloam (end of the Tunnel)! It was, indeed, closed. But a little boy came running up to us, pointing to himself, saying, "I American. My mom America." I chuckled and said, "No, you're not American." He said, "Coffe, Tea, Water?" I was rather thirsty, so I followed him up to his house. We walked in a little unsure of ourselves, just bombarding a home. But they were all sitting out on the balcony, and it turned out, they spoke English! The husband, and older gentleman named Abed, lived in Minnesota for about 30 years, off and on. He was delighted to have us there, and we got cold water (with ice!), some kind of vegetable (cucumber-like) called facuz, and some sliced apples. 

Oh, funny story. As we sat and talked, he asked us for our phone numbers to call our families. He called mine first - no answer. Then he tried my mom's number, and no answer. He left a message in which he said (in a rather strong Arab accent), "Sorry you missed your daughter's call." That was it. I knew my mom would freak, thinking I was abducted. She did. I got severely chastened over email.

We chatted for a while and the son offered to take us to Hezekiah's tunnel anyway. We were shocked and thrilled! After a bit, and after some purchasing of ancient coins, we got in a car with a son and nephew, and headed over. And we entered the Tunnel all alone, with the 15 (or so) year old boy. It was amazing! So fun. Afterward, he drove us to Jaffa Gate (close to home) and we walked home, very gratified.

This is my feeling: It is difficult to describe how vast is the difference between the Palestinian and Jewish sides of town. The Jewish side is much more modern and clean. The Palestinian side is run down, so very cluttered - every field, and even most streets, look like a dump in America - truly. Yet, the Palestinians have been so open, welcoming, giving. I have felt entirely safe. The image portrayed in the West is nothing like what we have experienced. The cultural difference is one of the major factors. The trash everywhere is rather shocking. And even while we were in the "driveway" to Abed's home, we saw a kid with his shirt pulled over his head to mask himself do some kind of mischief - throw something over a fence and then run off. The kids are somewhat dirty and play in the street, dodging cars that drive much too fast for the narrow, winding roads. Yet the people are so generous and kind. 

We are going tomorrow evening for dinner with Abed and his family. Very much looking forward to it.

Pics are here!

 Walking through the Old City on our way to take a bus to Bethlehem.

 Anny loving it on the bus.

 A Banksy graffiti on a building - they are at random places all over the city.

In front of the Franciscan church at Shepherd's field. 

 The caves at Shepherd's Field - they are currently under excavation, so we couldn't go everywhere, but it was a lot of fun to see remains of the ancient basilica and other things such as ancient altars in the caves.

Another Banksy picture - notice the guy is throwing flowers. 

 The Church of the Milky Grotto - none of us had ever heard of it, but apparently the story goes that when Mary took Jesus, after he was born and before they fled to Egypt, she stayed in this cave. She fed him from her breast, and some of the milk dropped down into the cave making its walls white (which, indeed, they generally are). It was an Orthodox site - which seems especially foreign to us, I've found, because of all the iconography and shrine-like element to it.

 A small olive-wood shop, where they are making nativity figures and other things for tourists to buy. Apparently they are friends of Ali, and he brought us down to see.

 Amy just next to the cave where Jesus is said to have been born.

 In front of the Church of the Nativity.

 Visiting the mosque across the street from the Church of the Nativity - Ali kept emphasizing that part. The Christians and the Muslims living together to peacefully. Notice that we had to wear a head covering (Ali got them for us - we were unprepared) - Anny wore her towel that she had in her backpack, so she looks like an Egyptian.

 All of us with Ali overlooking Bethlehem.

A final Banksy.