Final evening

Ugh. Sometimes I really wonder about my sanity, or my ability to pay attention to the smallest details. How am I possibly a PhD student? I have planned all week to make sure I get to the airport by 9 in the evening for my midnight flight. And everything worked out (in the end). Here I am, it's 9:29 pm, and I can't even check my luggage because my midnight flight actually leaves at 4:50 am! How did this happen! I'm stuck here in this dumb little cafe for the next 3 hours! Ugh.

So, with that time, I'll be updating the old blog. Probably for the last time, or penultimate time, perhaps.

Today has been a surprisingly rewarding and full day! It started last night when I consciously made the decision to attempt a friendly gesture to my roommate for the night. She was friendly in return, and we ended up going up to the bar for a drink. Yes, I, Amber Taylor, have joined regular young adult culture in enjoying an evening drink with a friend. But, no, I did not require alcohol to make the conversation flow easier. I enjoyed a nice orange juice. This, of course, brought up the question of my religion, and we talked about it, but it didn't dominate the conversation. Much.

I invited her to join me this morning for the City of David tour I had planned, and she did. She really is a very nice girl. Her name is Suzanna, from Germany, but speaks with a delightful and perfect English accent. Her mother is English and she went to American schools in Munich. At 9 in the morning we walked down to the City of David tour site, and it quickly became apparent that my choice of sandals was a poor one. I have been so impressed with these Palestinian sandals I bought (they have been very comfortable in my short distance walks over the last few days), that I just decided to wear them all over the city today. I suspect I'll be paying for that breach of reason for the next few days!

The tour was good - and about what I expected in terms of archaeology mixed with indoctrination. Both Suzanna and I noticed and discussed it in length later. After the tour, we opted to walk up the recently excavated drainage tunnel back to the tour center. Except somehow we managed to continue on in the tunnel, past the turn off to the center, and up all the way to the Temple Mount! As we began to encounter Herodian stone, notable for its 2-inch lip around the edges, I pointed it out. And then, when we came out, we found ourselves surrounded by temple ruins. But we didn't realize our mistake for another several minutes - and what a fortunate mistake it was! We would have had to pay extra to get to those ruins and walk through that part of the tunnel otherwise. It was an honest mistake, and the guy in the tunnel who was supposed to point us to City of David tour site didn't steer us in the right direction either! So we had fun looking around at the ruins and taking some pictures.

We then decided to go grab some lunch. I knew I would regret that decision as soon as I made it to Neveen's birthday party at 4 (it was already almost 2). Neveen is Abed's daughter with whom we formed a friendship, and she had invited me to her party for my last evening. Well, I was good an hungry by then, and could not help but eat all my big plate of noodles. And yep, I did regret it! Ah well. Suzanna and I had a nice conversation, exchanged info, and I headed on my way. We both agreed we were glad to have broken our general rule of shyness and became friends.

I continued to rue my choice of shoes as I walked back down to Abed's house in Silwan (yes, only about 100 feet away from the  City of David tour we had been at earlier). When I arrived, about 8 women were seated around a coffee table eating from an enormous platter of food - grape leaf wraps, stuffed zucchini and lamb (I believe). They handed me a fork and told me to eat! I tried - truly I did. But I was so full. All I could get down were two grape leaves and one bite of meat. It was so fun, though, to be there in the midst of them. They are a hoot! Jabbering and joking, shoving food at me, laughing and trying to communicate with me with one or two English words, and altogether a very friendly lot.

Afterward, the dancing began. I sat back, content to watch - these girls and even the older women could move! But soon I was pulled up into the group, and I desperately tried to remember my belly-dancing lessons. To no avail - I could not move my hips, arms or chest like these girls! But we had a wonderful time. Later they had a whole big assortment of cakes and goodies, and we sang Happy Birthday to Neveen. And I do mean Happy Birthday - first in a sort of English, then Arabic (both to a semblance of the familiar tune), and finally some chant I couldn't begin to understand. And she blew her 3 candles out.

Then, more dancing. I recorded some for your viewing pleasure - and so you can see just how pathetic my attempts were. But they loved watching me try! I was super self-conscious of my stench. I had been walking and hiking up and down those hills all day, and my backpack, with its straps full of my dry armpit sweat, was no help. Every once in a while I would catch a whiff of myself, and it was pretty rank. I could only hope that bad body odor is more acceptable in such a hot country.

Abed, Neveen's father, was going to take me back to Abraham hostel so I could catch my sharut (shared taxi) here to Ben Gurion airport for my flight. This meant I would walk with a few of the girls through the Kidron Valley to the Garden of Gethsemane (traditional site, with a church) to meet Abed. The girls walked hopelessly slow, and I was getting nervous about arriving in time. As we reached about the halfway point, I realized I had left my wallet, complete with my passport, in their house. REALLY!? I ran back, sore feet and all, grabbed the wallet, and ran back - tired and sweaty. Abed picked us up, and I prayed all the way to the hostel that the sharut wouldn't leave me. Right as I arrived, the sharut did - and I got on it. All is well. Except that I'm stuck here for the next 5 hours! Major sigh.

Anyway, I said about all I have to say about leaving last night. But it was sure a wonderful way to end my time in Jerusalem, to walk through the Kidron Valley at dusk, past Zedekiah's Tomb and Absalom's Tomb, gazing up at the Mount of Olives with the ancient Jewish cemetery and churches. It was lovely, despite my stress about time.

And so it ends. I'm so grateful for a truly meaningful trip filled with good people, new friends, and affirmations.

Below are a few fun pics from today. Enjoy. See y'all soon!

Well, looks like this airport internet is not jiving with my phone, so I'll have to upload those pics later and post 'em. Heck, it gives you something to look forward to.

OK, now I am adding the pics (only 2 weeks later!).

The view from the City of David, looking south over Silwan and over to Mt. Zion. Notice how steep the hill is leading down from the City of David. Part of that is natural (the reason the site was chosen anciently) and part of it built by David himself to better fortify the city.

Inside one of the tunnels of the City of David, leading to access to the water source at the Gihon Spring.

Another (dry) tunnel. I opted out of Hezekiah's Tunnel this time (since I had already had my own,  private tour. Archaeologists aren't sure what these smaller tunnels were used for, but they suspect they might have been some sore of irrigation system, allowing water to flow out of the Spring to the fields outside the city. It is thought perhaps David and his men entered the city through these tunnels to drive out the Jebusites.

Arriving at the Temple Mount after hiking up through the approximately mile-long drainage tunnel. That hike, by the way, is not for the claustrophobic!

Robinson's Arch - or what is left of it. This arch held up a massive staircase leading to Temple Mount. You can see that about where the arch ends, so does the larger Herodian stone. The stones above that are more recent, from the Muslim and Crusader era. What you see is actually the ENORMOUS retaining wall that Herod built to provide the large, flat surface for Temple Mount that exists still today. As large as this wall seems, it still goes down (under the rubble you see) for about 50 feet, and to the left (where the Western "Wailing" Wall is found, and beyond) about 300 more yards.

 This site has a little bit of history on Jerusalem and the Temple Mount, including a picture of Robinson's Arch to give you an idea of how large the structure actually was. http://www.epilgrim.org/patriarch.htm

 

A view of the rubble of the destroyed Temple.

An idea of how large these stones are, and a good view of the lip or edging around them that make them so distinctive. (Yes, I'm making a point of touching ancient stone.)

Suzanna and myself sitting atop some of the rubble.

On my walk back down to Abed's house in Silwan, I came across a tree whose leaves looked oddly familiar. Can you guess what they are?

And, of course, the ever-prevalent olive tree.

Neveen's sister and a friend. They don't seem too put off by the stench.

And the video - should you feel the urge to experience some awesome Arab dancing.

Thoughts on leaving

I wish I had kept a better record or journal 13 years ago when I came. I probably did keep some kind of journal. Perhaps I just need to go dig it out of the piles of personal things I still have stored in my parents' basement. But I find myself wishing I could read it. Sometimes I like to get a glimpse into my self of younger years. Sometimes it's inspiring to see how I've grown; sometimes it's disheartening to see the same weaknesses and irritating traits continue to bare their ugly head. But I do like to review my journey.

This has been a good experience for me. As all good adventures, it has been so very different from the way I expected it to be. I feel that I have come face to face with Israel on its own terms in ways I haven't been able to in the past. It's hard to explain what I mean by that, but I'll try.

I think this is what fascinates me most about Israel: its central place in the imagination of so very many people. By people I mean peoples, as in large cultures, as well as smaller groups, such as churches, and progressively smaller groups, such as local regions, families, and then individuals. Most people in the world have some kind of relationship with this place. We have what we imagine it to be, what our religion tells us it is. And there are all kinds of things in Israel to play to those imagined realities. But it is a living, breathing place. People live their lives here. So many people. So many different kinds of people. The diversity and breadth of the spectrum is stunning. This is not some magical, imagined place they read about. This is their life.

Some live here to live and walk where Jesus walked, or where their ancestors fought and lived and recorded scripture. Others just live here because generations before them lived here. Others still live here because nowhere else in the world are they welcomed or independent. And still others yearn to live here, angry and resentful of the loss of their land more than 60 years ago.

I think my feelings this morning upon leaving Nazareth (yes, I write from the Abraham hostel in Jerusalem, again) encompass it well. I walked through the tiny streets down to the main artery through town where I would pick up the bus to Jerusalem. The small roads (where one doesn't drive) are cobblestoned, with the ubiquitous creamy white limestone - it is the color of most buildings and all the walkways. I have no idea how old these stones are, but they seem ancient. They are polished smooth from millions of footsteps over the years, and when car tires pass over them, they squeal slightly.

I thought as I walked how many Christians come there each year, walk over those stones and find great meaning in walking "where Jesus walked." I, of course, have no idea if Jesus walked there, on those particular stones. Certainly not on the paved road! Perhaps the passageways were the same 2000 years ago, but likely the stone wasn't. But that city holds the significance of being Jesus' hometown. Hundreds of thousands of people visit it each year, and the city pulsates with their presence. Tourist shops line the market streets and churches named after Mary and Joseph dot the hillside. Now various hostels are growing up to accomodate visitors with a smaller budget and large backpack.

Never once, aside for the few moments of the door-pounding and yelling of the video production, did I ever feel unsafe there. No one cat-called at me as I walked past. (OK, in full disclosure, as I walked through the deserted streets on Sunday afternoon, two young men asked me where I was from. I replied Boston, and the second of them said, "My friend here need a girlfriend." I answered that I was not available. He said, "Your loss." I told him I agreed.) Even when I was clearly lost yesterday evening and was wandering around residential neighborhoods, obviously not a local, no one really looked at me strangely or bothered me. They nodded to me and smiled. Children ran in the streets. Today as I sat at the bus station, three little Arab boys attempted to ask me which bus I was waiting for - they were waiting for one as well. They didn't want to heckle me for being an outsider. I was there on the same terms as them. I haven't felt that everywhere in the world, but I feel that here. And I don't feel unsafe.

I appreciated the city of Nazareth, not for its value as the hometown of Jesus (although, of course it is special for this reason), but for the people who were kind to me there. They wanted nothing of me, except perhaps for me to buy their wares. But they helped me get the car out of an impossible tight spot (as you know, that is not figurative language!), and find a spot to park - and did so good-naturedly; over and over, they showed me how to get to the Fauzi Azar Inn; they welcomed me, treated me respectfully always. The streets are pretty much always dirty - if I could avoid it, I didn't set my backpack down on them. I am sure that the economy could develop much more quickly if people did more than sit all day at their shops, selling something perhaps once an hour. But THIS was Nazareth to me.

This has been Israel to me. Not a bunch of destinations on a tour bus. Real roads that are rather fun to drive. Beautiful agricultural areas, dense, often dirty cities and vibrant people. This is what I needed. To connect what I experienced 13 years ago, and what I have read in books and articles in the last few years, to a tangible reality.

I don't know if that makes any sense, but it is the best I can do.

I may post again, or I may not. I don't know. But in any case, I'm grateful for how the Lord has cared for me, directed my path, and made this a worthwhile endeavor.

Now, just for kicks and giggles, as I was leaving this morning, film shooting was getting under way again, and I snapped a couple of furtive pictures. The girl in these pictures has apparently progressed to the bloody stage (remember, it's some kind of horror movie). Hee hee.

One of the main characters, lying on the hammock, with blood all over her nightgown and down her legs.

Madness in the streets of Nazareth

Exciting goings on around here! I was sitting on my bed, trying to ignore the smell of pigeon (they are much to friendly downstairs), peacefully working on a few things on my computer, when, suddenly, someone pounded on the big door outside the hostel and was yelling something in English. He sounded panicked. Then I heard some Arab voices, and wondered if some crazy American had tried to steal some souvenirs and was being apprehended. I couldn't fathom what might be going on!

It calmed down a bit, then it happened again, and some guy was yelling to someone named Rachel. Then all of a sudden a girl was also yelling. Now I was up ready to duck for cover. It calmed down again.

Then it happened again. And I realized they must be filming something here. I can see how the narrow, picturesque streets would be an ideal spot. And I remembered that this morning I had seen a bunch of camera equipment. It was coming together. Now they're on their 4th or 5th shot. I went out and talked to one of the crew, found out that it's an independent film about a couple of girls who come to Israel on vacation and get into some trouble. Sounds like my mom's imagination come to life! The funny thing is, it's really quiet here. Even in the main market, filled with all kinds of wares, and especially souvenirs, the owners don't holler and try to get you to come in and buy. The yelling of the actors is really a huge contrast to the quiet, peaceful ambience here. Clearly movies do NOT represent reality.

I have had quite the day! It's been lovely. I woke up a little early, enough to get going on a hike I wanted to do. I arrived after about 45 minutes on top of Mt. Precipice, where, traditionally, the Jews tried to stone Jesus by throwing him off the steep ledges. It was a good incline, but not too long. My body's cooling system is back and better than ever - I was drenched by the time I reached the top. But what a view! And those dumb little blisters (that appear on my arms when I'm hot) came back in full force as well! What the heck are those? I'll include some pics and a video I took.

I made my way back to Nazareth again, hopped on a bus to Cana, and went to inspect the Wedding Church (the traditional site where Jesus turned water to wine). It's a nice little place, but I was finished seeing everything I wanted to see after 20 minutes. So, I grabbed an ice cream, then got on a bus, and headed back. I stopped at a little restaurant here in Nazareth, stuffed myself with pita and hummus (my favorite thing, I've decided), and came back to the hostel for a half hour nap.

After my nap I went back out to meet up with Sister Mazzawi, whom I had met at church on Saturday. She works in a very nice advertising office - well, she and her husband own it. I think they are quite wealthy, from the looks of things. We had a nice little chat. I really chuckled when she told me that when I bore my testimony, she had a strong feeling that I would be someone that people remember, like Hillary Clinton. I hope not like that! She said I'm very charismatic and will do something great one day. That was a little surprising to hear, but nice. I do hope to do some good in this world.

***I have to update and tell you that, as I was sitting here writing this, I was recruited to be an extra in the little film going on downstairs. So, now you may see me in such important films as Species (yes, at at 15 I was an extra in that. Never saw it) and now some independent Israeli film. Not sure what it's called. (Sigh) The life of the rich and famous.

Saw this as I was walking down the street this morning, on the way to climb Mt. Precipice. Really? Friends? Made me laugh. (The clip below this shows the view from atop the mountain.)

Wedding Church in Cana - the traditional site where Jesus turned the water into wine. (The clip below shows a service going on at the church when I walked in.)

Ruins of the ancient church.

The ruins have become quite the money pit! Sylvia, here's what to do with all that small change!

Pics of the last couple of days

Boy, it appears readership has totally dropped off! Life is either a lot more interesting in the States, or since my friends have left, it's a lot more boring over here. But that's OK - my time here is winding down, and this blog's life is winding down with it, I suppose.

Today was a lot of traveling, not much interesting. I successfully made my way to Cana, without GPS (since it had no idea where that was), but once there I couldn't find the wedding church that is the main place to see. I didn't look too awfully hard - all the Christian sites apparently close at 12, to reopen at 2 (siesta?), and it was nearing 12. So, I decided to head back to Tiberias to drop off my car and take the bus back.

On the bus I was rather horrified to find out that bus 431, which I had taken three times previously from Tiberias to Nazareth, was only going to Nazareth Ilit (upper Nazareth, and about 2 miles from where I wanted to be). I was about to get off the bus and figure something else out, when the guy behind me explained that I could take that bus, then catch a local bus down to the Old City. Thank goodness for him! He sat by me and we talked all the way (despite my growing motion sickness - it still gets to me!). And already we're friends on Facebook. My mom thinks I'm a social butterfly because I keep meeting people here. If only she knew! But I'm glad to be making friends, and I've been truly blessed with the people the Lord has put in my path.

So, here I am, back in the Fauzi Azar. I opted out of dinner, since everything here is shut down (they actually keep the Sabbath, Sunday, here! Amazing! Rather inconvenient for me, but amazing!). I had a piece of cake from upstairs, and will go to bed early to go on a nice little hike early in the morning. Hopefully be back for breakfast. I should be.

So, here are the pics from the last couple of days. One of the places I hadn't known about previously is a charming little Greek Orthodox monastery a little further up from Tabgha and the Church of St. Peter's Primacy. I don't know what specific event it celebrates, but it has quite the history. Apparently, a church existed there anciently (around the 3rd or 4th century), but was destroyed in an earthquake in the 10th century. After that, it remained in ruins until the 20th century. After excavations determined it was, in fact, an ancient church, a monk began rebuilding it in the 1960s. Now it is a nice little church right on the shores of the Galilee. It has free-range chickens, geese, turkeys and ducks in abundance. But what was really fun were the peacocks! The others are in a large, fenced in garden area, but the peacocks roam free and don't seem much bothered by people.

So, enjoy the photos!

The view from the balcony of the church in Tiberias. The view of the Sea of Galilee continues to the right, covering the whole Sea.

The hymns.

The Greek Orthodox Church on the shore.

Inside the Church of St. Peter's Primacy; I suppose this is the rock where he obtained his name, "Peter." (Matt 16:18)

The view from the church at the Mt. of Beatitudes.

View through a side gate that I found fascinating.

The church at the Mt. of Beatitudes.

Peacock at the Greek Orthodox Church (sorry - it's out of order; I visited again this morning).

Another peacock.

It seems every plant here is thorny! This lovely bush of flowers has secret little thorns waiting to get you. See them?

Gluttony

Oh, the luxury! The sinful pleasure! I fell asleep around 9 last night and slept in until almost 7 this morning. And here I sit, casually writing my blog, without any time constraints, nestled in my cozy bed in my air conditioned room. I really feel as though I should feel guilty, but I refuse. I'm just going to smile and enjoy it. For at least another hour. And then I'll get serious.

Yesterday was a delightful day. I slept in then a little too. Then I got up and got ready for church. It took a little bit of investigative research to find the exact house-converted-to-church, but I found it, of course by watching for Mormon-looking people going in. It's a good thing I was watching close! Only 8 were there! It was the smallest branch, by far, that I have ever attended.

I sat down near a lovely Arab woman from Nazareth. Her husband was in the district presidency, and was presiding, since apparently the branch president was at another branch translating into Spanish. He spoke very good English, and repeated everything he said in Hebrew and Spanish. Astounding! One of the families in the branch is from Uruguay, and they translate everything! On the wall, the hymns are listed in English, Spanish, what I think might be Russian (anyone able to confirm or correct?) and Hebrew. The Sacrament was blessed by the one young man there, and he blessed it in Hebrew! I was rather surprised, but so delighted.

And then it was time for bearing testimonies. Already a special spirit was in the room, but as testimony meeting began, I was overcome with how powerful the Holy Ghost was, and my own emotions. Almost everyone in the room shared their testimony – and it still didn't take the whole time. I also shared mine, and became rather emotional (I never cry in a testimony! I pride myself on this fact. But, alas, I was forced to find a tissue).

After the meeting I had the opportunity to speak with Sister Susan Mazawwi, the woman I had sat next to. The story of her husband's and her conversion to the Church is rather remarkable. They didn't have very much time to tell it, but essentially, they had noticed the light in some members' eyes (remember, we as members can't share or speak of our faith here, other than to acknowledge that we are members of the Church). When they were in America some time later, they asked about it, and upon returning, went to Cyprus to receive the lessons. They were baptized in the Mediterranean Sea in Cyprus almost two years ago. This last year they traveled to Switzerland to receive their Temple Endowment and be sealed as a family. I got her email address, and I'll be going to see her while I'm Nazareth this week.

After the church meetings were over, I got talking to Sister Hansen. She teaches at a local college here, but is still working on her dissertation. (Her son is the one that blessed the Sacrament.) When she found out I was at Brandeis, she asked about someone who had written their MA thesis on President Benson and the State of Israel. I gasped, “That was me!” I could hardly believe someone here knew about that! She also asked if I knew Jason Olsen, which, of course, I did. She asked what I thought of him, and I said Jason and I don't see eye to eye on a few things. She was glad to hear it, and proceeded to tell me all about it. I won't go into it now, but she helped me feel much better about many of the frustrations I have experienced over the last year. And she wants to collaborate with me on writing a history of the Church in the Holy Land! That sounds like a great idea to me!

I asked about places to eat on Shabbat, and they directed me to an Arab restaurant in Golani (Sylvia and Anny – remember that? It's where we started our hiking). So, after making a trip to some of the local Christian sites, I made my way over there to eat. And eat I did! The waiter was very attentive, and I managed the whole thing in Hebrew! I got pita and hummus, with a cucumber-tomato salad and pickled cucumbers and olives to start. Then the main course was called shishlik, which is skewered chicken cooked over the grill. Delicious! After that he brought me coffee and some sort of small, gelatin-like dessert with cinnamon sprinkled on top, and smothered in a bright pink sweet sauce that tasted ever-so-slightly like cough-syrup. But it was very good. I decided that while I'm here, I might as well fully partake in the local customs, so I took a sip of the coffee. It was dark, rich and bitter. Just kidding! Of course I didn't drink the coffee! But it did smell dark, rich and bitter! Instead, I drank my fill of fresh lemonade with fresh mint. Just when I thought I was finished (my tummy was so entirely full!), the waiter brought out two little bit-size pastries, both with pistachios in the middle. They were delicious, even if I could barely squeeze them in.

And that was that. I suppose I should get myself ready and get to some of the other sites I need to see today. The internet is insufferable at this place – the one drawback. So, I'll upload the pictures I took yesterday of the view from the church, and of some of the Christian sites, tomorrow. If I remember correctly, Fauzi Azar has good internet.